Diving in Saba
Though physically small, Saba offers a wide range of diving experiences, from dramatic seamounts and walls to shallow spur-and-groove reefs and volcanic-forged rock gardens. All waters around the island lie within a marine park. A combination of strong conservation efforts, limited diver traffic and a steady flow of nutrient-rich waters result in some of the healthiest and most prolific growths of corals and sponges in the Eastern Caribbean. There are no beaches on Saba, and the steep cliffs that surround most of the island preclude shore diving. All dives are by boat, originating at the Fort Bay on the island's south coast. From there, all dive sites are within a half to three miles of the harbor. Mooring buoys are maintained at all dive sites, which offer a broad range of underwater topographies. A mile to the west of the island, a group of seamounts rise from deep water to within 85 or 90 feet of the surfaces. Formed by volcanic activity, these structures sit below the effects of storm surges, and are covered in dense growths of sea fans and sponges. Close inspections will reveal a wide range of small marine life living on the vertical faces on the pinnacles, while the bigger picture takes in groupers, schooling jacks, turtles and sharks. Gray reef and nurse sharks are the most common sightings, but divers may also encounter hammerheads, black tips and on rare occasions even a whale shark or manta ray. The five pinnacle sites have evocative names such as Third Encounter, Twilight Zone, Outer Limits, Mt. Michel and Shark Shoals, and even more dramatic is the lone pinnacle known as Eye of the Needle, which rises in a thin column or rock less than ten feet in diameter. Closer to Saba's western shore, the sea mounts of Man O’ War Shoals begin at depths of 80 feet, and rise close to the surface, or in the case of Diamond Rock, rise above the waves to create a cliff side sanctuary for sea birds. These sites are often washed by currents that encourage abundant and colorful growth but are not as likely to attract the pelagics found on offshore pinnacles. They do hold abundant populations of reef fish such as blue tangs, big eyes and juvenile barracuda, along with a wide range of invertebrates that hide among the sea fans and sponges. The dark volcanic sands at the base of these structures are populated by flying gurnards, batfish, sand tilefish and jawfish. Saba's most sheltered dive sites are found close to the western shore, from Torrens Point to Ladder Bay. This area includes a number of interesting landscapes that range from spur-and-groove formations to networks of caves and tunnels formed by ancient lava flows, boulder fields and patches of hot sand that hint at the island's dormant but still present volcanic nature. Shallow to mid-range depths provide ample time to seek out a menagerie of Caribbean reef life among gardens of star coral, brain coral and gorgonian. A close look at a sea fan may reveal a cryptic sea horse lurking among the branches. To the south, an extended rock ledge known as Tent Reef begins at a depth of only 12 feet, and stair steps down in a series of deep undercuts to a wall and a series of steep coral outcroppings separated by deep sand channels. Island divemasters often refer to this area as Saba's aquarium, because it is home to the island's widest variety of reef species, and it is a favorite location for night dives. A number of additional dives sites located on the island's eastern side are dove on an intermittent basis when prevailing trade winds and swells subside. These sties are coral reefs in a more traditional sense, with coral heads rising from white sand bottoms. Elkhorn, brain and mushroom-shaped star corals dominate at sites such as Greer Gut, Big Rock Market and Hole in the Corner, where currents are mild to non-existent and visibility can be exceptional.